Sunday, May 18, 2008

Cape Town - Weeks 36 - 37

With a flight departing to Zambia in less than 8 hours, I initially thought that I could put together a blog composed solely of pictures, allowing the images of my past few weeks to tell the story. However, after an extremely intense past few days, I decided a little summarization was in order (i.e. a half-assed attempt in putting together a somewhat entertaining blog).

Almost two months after my parents departed from their visit to South Africa, I welcomed two new visitors to Cape Town, Emily Criste and Brett Crandall. In welcoming my two new guests, I also welcomed in three weeks of literal nonstop action, traveling, and anything else in the category of "everything," requested by Brett before his arrival. Although the three weeks are still in progress, this is what "everything" has included thus far:

- Climbing Table Mountain -- Ascending the mountain in near hurricane force winds, we arrived at the summit only to discover that the reliable and efficient cable car had ceased operations only two hours earlier. Thus, after regretfully accepting our fate (and downing our sorrows with a few luke warm Black Labels), we began our descent back down the mountain, spending the majority of our time jumping down from rock to rock in near pitch black dark. Thanks to the reliable South African tourism industry, a permanent limp has officially become part of my walking routine.

- Shark Cage Diving -- For those of you who are unfamiliar with Shark Cage Diving, it is an activity that involves lowering adrenaline filled junkies into a shallow metal cage in the middle of the ocean, and then proceeding to toss "chum" around the cage in hopes of attracting Great White Sharks (chum which of course we were forced to swim in, that was the equivalent of pouring a can of tuna water over our heads... I know, fragrant). I will let the pictures tell the rest of this story.

- Kloofing -- I don't even know where to start with this one. Similar to canyoning, kloofing involves hiking down into a canyon, doing a bit of rappelling/abseiling as well as jumping into pools of water from various heights (5 - 50ft). Typical kloofing companies are well-organized, and have efficient and confident guides who lead the group through the various activities during your day. OUR kloofing company not only instructed us to bring beachwear (i.e. sandals) for a day of intense rock climbing, they also were essentially too afraid to do any of the jumps we were there to do (When an instructor declares "F*ck man, this is too high, I can't do this," it doesn't really create that level of confidence needed for a 50ft jump). Either way, our day was quite entertaining, despite the fact that our veteran guides were almost as clueless as the local baboons who decided to pay us a visit during the end of our trip.

- Other -- Swimming with the penguins, visiting local wineries, treating my guests to an array of South African delicacies, a bit of shopping (aka purchasing almost every set of salad forks in the southern hemisphere), and of course taking enough naps to make a newborn baby jealous.

Well, I leave you for now until my next blog (which hopefully is a bit more well-written than this one): The Southern African Expedition (Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Mozambique)



Enjoying one of our few non-adventure-related moments in Cape Town

I swear these penguins recognize me by now since I've been to see them so many times

Debating the overwhelming aromas and underlying flavors of our wine tasting session

Climbing up Table Mountain in some intense clouds


Enjoying our well-lit walk down Table Mountain

On the Shark Cage Diving boat

One of the great whites swimming by... (this one was about 15 feet long)

Craziness

Swimming under a waterfall during our day of Kloofing

Abseiling

Monday, May 5, 2008

Cape Town - Weeks 34 - 35

After almost nine months of relative unemployment, I officially joined the working world of South Africa last week, commencing my nightlife photography position with Thunda.com. Sporting my official ThundaCat uniform -- A blinding bright synthetic orange top, black trousers, and a pair of black Puma shoes probably originating from somewhere in the 1980s – I took to the streets of Cape Town, with camera in-hand, ready to show the world my eye for drunken photography.

Before the evening begins, I am assigned anywhere from five to twelve bars in a single night, to where I travel as to procure as many “permission-based” photographs as humanly possible. Thus, bar after bar, I ask literally every single “patron” – “Hi, would you like a photo for Thunda.com?” From college students to middle-aged workers. From bachelorettes to recently graduated students still living in their parent’s basement. Even a collective group of 15 year old high schoolers, celebrating the fact that a local bar was willing to support their semi-illegal alcoholic cravings (which of course forced me to erase all pictures that had any form of alcohol within). For all these people I capture that true “Kodak moment" (barring any closed eyes or awkward poses), before moving on my next targeted group.

While the majority of those were quite positive towards my requests, there were those few that took one look at my bright orange uniform, and eyed me away like a stray dog. Shaking of heads, rolling of eyes, looks of confusion, statements of “I hate Thunda, they always make me look ugly,” (to which I am always tempted to agree with), but by far my favorite – complete and utter rudeness:

Me: “Hi, would you like a photo for Thunda.com?”
Girl: “No, fuck off.”
Me: “Ummm, ok”
Girl: “I’m just kidding…” (She wasn’t)
Me: “Yeah.. it’s alright, I get it a lot.” (I don’t)
Girl: “Really? Is it cause you’re American??”
Me: (Wow)

Overall, however, the job has been quite an interesting experience. Not only have I become well-known among bouncers in Cape Town (goodbye waiting in long lines!), I also have charmed my fair share of cover charge girls (goodbye cover charges!). Although the pay isn’t great (I probably spend more on gas than I actually earn), my Thunda responsibilities are a good way to start off the night, as after I have taken my 400 – 600 pictures for the night, I shed my uniform, redress myself, and stroll right back into the bar to end my night on a high note.

Aside from photographing almost half the population of Cape Town in a period of two weeks, I decided to dedicate the remainder of my time to obtaining my PADI Scuba Diving Certification. With an upcoming trip to Mozambique in the next few weeks, it seemed a perfect opportunity to try out my sea fins, and attempt to overcome one of my most dreaded fears: Drowning.

To those of you who are unfamiliar with my swimming history, let’s just say I have managed to establish myself quite well in the past 25 years:

- Age 2: Only child in the world to somehow manage to flip themselves upside-down in the pool, despite being attached to multiple unflippable flotation devices. Inevitable result: Lifelong fear of drowning (score!)

- Age 7: My first swimming lesson – An hour of choking, sinking, more choking, and a fair share of crying.

- Age 10: Join the swim team – Due to my inability to establish myself as a proficient swimmer, I was instead invited to join the Developmental Swim Team (pretty much the team dedicated to those who are about 10 years too old for the baby pool, but still can somehow drown themselves in less than a foot of water). Although we WERE invited to swim meets, we were never allowed to participate in them. Must’ve been scared we would be too fast I guess…

- Age 13: First and only snorkeling trip – If maintaining a snorkel constantly filled with water was a skill, I would be one of the best!

Thus, given this impressive resume, it only seemed sensible that I continue my successful progress in the swimming world, and move onto breathing underwater.

Now, as I consider myself very good at breathing above water, I figured breathing underwater would be just as easy. One overused oxygen tank later, I learned I was quite wrong about my assumption. Apparently short, semi-panicked breaths are NOT the way to breathe when under water, in turn causing me to use almost double the oxygen of the other trainee in our course. And although the 200 meter “warm-up” swim and 10 minutes of treading water did not help my cause (as I was more or less in an exhausted-caused coma due to this), I did manage to succeed in passing all the requirements of our first day of training.

Day #2 left the safe confines of the local pool, and took us to 58 degree waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Swimming just off shore from Simon’s Town, we spent about 3-4 hours in the water, practicing various “survival techniques,” all while about 15 feet beneath the surface. Removing your air supply, letting it fill up with water, clearing the water, breathing the air again. Taking off your mask, letting it float away, finding your mask, emptying it of water, breathing again. Even breathing only via the means of air bubbles in the water for 10 seconds from an “out-of-control” air supply (yes, we had to breathe bubbles underwater… ).

And although it was quite a remarkable experience, as we saw a variety of wildlife, a baby shark and even a sunken shipwreck, I did manage to end my day with at least 3-4 gallons of the ocean in my stomach and lungs (I think I’ve been peeing for about 48 straight hours now…). Yet, only two dives remain between myself and a lifelong PADI Scuba Diving Certification!

Well, that is about it for now. I may try fit in one more blog before my departure to Zimbabwe/Zambia/Botswana/Mozambique, although no guaran-Sheeds.

Onto the pics:


First night on the job sporting my no-way-you're-not-gonna-see-me uniform


Hanging out with some 15 year old drunkards (I think they took about 150 pictures in 45 minutes)

Soskolne's unite! Me and the 5th cuz adding to the "family album"

Hmmm... wonder why I took this job??

Wow, life is rough

Scuba Skone!

Nelson (the other trainee) and our certified expert Wesley

Another trip up in the Grycopter! Looking over Simon's Town and the fierce 3-ship South African Navy

Nice little mid-air shot of Cape Town

Townships/Squatter Camps of Cape Town -- It's pretty unreal to see how immense these truly are (almost 1.5 million people live in this area alone)